We filled our bellies with hummus and falafel, rented a car, and prayed that our bodies could withstand the stress and fear we experienced driving out of Amman. Luckily, traffic thinned as we drove north. It may have been related to the signs along the road that said "Syria 98km."

Our destination was Jerash, a beautifully preserved Roman city that rivals any site I've seen in Italy. A site that is practically devoid of tourists, a rare quality that greatly enhances the immersion.

We then turned south, skirting the dead sea and onto the king's highway. We admired some of the world's first mosaics and continued on to Petra.